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Benjamin: James, from discovering an old Pentax camera in your father’s room to now establishing a significant online presence, your journey has been remarkable. Can you tell us a bit about your roots in photography and how they’ve shaped your current style?
James: Certainly. My introduction to photography began serendipitously, with me finding my father’s old Pentax camera and then observing him develop his own prints. This hobby of his became the spark for my passion. The magic of seeing an image appear from nowhere was captivating, especially in black & white. It became an embodiment of capturing a fleeting moment in time.
Benjamin: You’ve had extensive formal education in photography, both in the UK and USA. How did your time at university shape your skills, especially your specialisation in black & white printing?
James: My years at university, especially during the exchange to New York at the Rochester Institute of Technology, exposed me to the classic way of printing and processing. Techniques like gum bichromate and cyanotypes, coupled with early video methodologies, gave me a diverse skill set. I fell in love with Kodak film and Agfa warm-tone fibre papers, which played a pivotal role in honing my black & white printing expertise.
Benjamin: It’s fascinating that even with your significant focus on traditional methods, you embraced the “digital darkroom”. How has the shift to digital tools like Photoshop impacted your work?
James: Embracing the digital darkroom, particularly Photoshop, allowed me to replicate the essence of traditional film and paper stock. The versatility and precision offered by these tools opened up a whole new world of possibilities. Although I’m passionate about analogue photography, I believe in merging the best of both worlds to create masterpieces.
Benjamin: Speaking of masterpieces, you’ve been recognised for your unique editorial style and your knack for capturing intimate moments. What’s the secret behind this?
James: It’s about understanding the narrative. My background in fashion photography in Europe and the UK has been instrumental. I’ve always aimed to capture seemingly intimate moments in a polished and aspirational way. My grasp of concepts and design has allowed me to conceptualise and create images that resonate with Art Directors and Editors alike.
Benjamin: From photography to a brief stint as a Creative Director in new media and now as a DOP, your journey has been versatile. How have these roles complemented each other?
James: Each role has added layers to my understanding of the visual medium. As a Creative Director in new media, I delved into interface design, which helped me grasp what agencies sought. Transitioning to a DOP has been a natural progression, complementing my foundation in photography. Every experience has augmented my ability to deliver impactful content.
Benjamin: Your aspirations now lie in celebrity photography and luxury brand shoots. What drives this focus?
James: I believe in evolution. Shooting for luxury brands and celebrities presents a unique challenge—it’s about capturing the essence of luxury, class, and timeless elegance. I’m particularly drawn to black & white shoots and envision myself working on productions akin to Dolce & Gabbana’s iconic shoots. Collaborating with top-tier stylists and producing high-value content is where I see myself excelling.
Benjamin: You’ve mentioned Peter Lindbergh, Vincent Peters, and others as inspirations. How do they influence your work?
James: Their strong identity, especially in black & white, both in studio and on-location, is truly inspirational. Lindbergh’s style and opportunities resonate with where I envision myself. The depth, emotion, and narrative they bring to their work is what I aim to infuse in mine.
Benjamin: Lastly, James, your online presence, especially with your website and your photographer’s blog “SilverGumType”, is gaining traction. How do you plan to leverage this moving forward?
James: The digital world offers immense potential. Through “SilverGumType”, I aim to share my insights with budding photographers and offer online monochrome courses to those keen on honing their skills in black & white photography. Leveraging my online presence, especially with my search ranking as a “Fashion Photographer”, is crucial. I’m focusing on updating my YouTube channel to create more awareness about my work and journey.
Interview conducted by Benjamin Hardwick Follow James Nader on his various social media feeds to keep updated with his latest works and insights.
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To gain a deeper understanding of James’ contributions to the photography industry, you can also check out an article recognizing him as one of the Top 15 Fashion Photographers in London.
Please follow these links and platforms to stay informed about James Nader’s evolving portfolio, insights, and creative ventures.
James Nader’s New online Portfolio offers a glimpse of all Niches of Photography
Germán Benito is a Spanish Digital Artist specialising in fantasy photo edits and surreal compositions. He has been featured by Photoshop and Wacom, but I first noticed his name when we had the interview from @jillianlee one of her pictures had been edited by @gervisuals The truth is you see Photoshop art but there was something that captured my attention as an avid Photoshop user.
Germán’s work shows a superb balance of colour, fantastic skin textures and the ability to mix its content into marvellous artistic interpretations. Contemporary incarnations of surrealistic fantasy similar to that of Dali.
Because of the language barrier we have kept the interview concise and used Google translate to get the full article together, so hope you enjoy.
Hi everyone! My name is Germán Benito, and I am a Spanish graphic designer.
Since I can really remember, I’ve been always drawing fantastic worlds and imaginary characters, influenced by the movies I watched and the comics that I often read.
When I grew up my fascination in the creative took over and, I started learning and taking advantage of the possibilities of the digital world and these creations, resulting in the wonderful compositions that I make today and enjoy by many online. The possibilities of the digital world and how it allows me the opportunity to create my artworks, resulting in the photo edits that I make today, always with my Wacom tablet and my beloved Photoshop.
I think so, or I must be because since I was little I spent my free time always drawing and inventing stories or storylines for my characters.
When I was young I always drew by hand, and my first steps in photoshop were to scan those drawings to be able to colour them digitally. Once I got fluent with Photoshop I jumped to taking my own digital photos to learn manipulation.
I currently live in Madrid, Spain. I think that for my type of work it is not very important where I reside. I try to create images that are understood internationally.
I think my style has been modified over the years, at first I created more colourful, more “childish” illustrations, but in this time I have met people like my friend @hecsouls who have influenced me to take my photos to a darker side, more adult.
I am also inspired by a lot of people that I follow on Instagram like @aykutmaykut or @antonioilustrando
I have always been very influenced by the world of illustration, and I think that is reflected in my editions. They are a mix between photography and illustration.
Well, I think it has inspired me without my being very conscious of the fact. Dalí has a surrealist style that I love, and I remember perfectly when I visited the Dalí museum as a child … it blew my mind.
I haven’t really had many clients through my edits. I have a full-time job in an advertising agency, so I use my edits as something personal, an escape route and entertainment. The clients I have met have contacted me, attracted by my style.
I have definitely always liked the editions with saturated colours, but I think they have evolved a lot over time. Now I play a lot more with colours, what they mean and what I want to convey with them.
Of course! Many times the first thing I look for is the idea, I think about the final image I want to achieve and once I have it clear, I look for stock images or I make it myself. I recommend free banks like Unsplash or pixels. There are very good photos and free to use. Then I do all the work in Photoshop and Camera Raw, I don’t use any external plugin and no action.
I treat each photo individually. For this type of edition, I always recommend the use of tablets, I personally am a big fan of the Wacom brand And as a useful tip especially for me, I especially recommend knowing how to crop images, using the pen tool and knowing very well the layer blending modes in Photoshop.
Anywhere.. Inspiration can come from another artist, a comic, a movie, a song… anywhere.
I really love art, and yes, I am always looking for new artists, I observe many other people to get inspired by them and what they do in their own work.
NFT’s have opened up a world of possibilities for digital artists, but it is very difficult as there is so much competition. I have managed to sell some but I have others waiting for a buyer. Lots of people create NFT’s and it’s hard to stand out.
Yes, I have sold some on foundtaion.app and kollect.me but my biggest sale has been on crypto.com and I have another auction there this December.
It is such a new world that I am not sure how it works at all. I was lucky that an agency contacted me and thanks to them I have been able to start in this world. I recommend people who want to try, to look for platforms where the minting process is cheap and above all to have a lot of patience. Twitter is the most used platform to promote NFT’s
At the moment I have not had any problems with the NFT’s, but mentally it is sometimes exhausting because you put your best designs on sale and it frustrates me to see that many people manage to sell and you do not, so you have to be very patient. In my case, the good thing is that I don’t make art exclusively for NFT’s, I make art for myself, and sometimes I put them up for sale and if I manage to sell them great, and if not, then nothing happens either.
I have never exhibited my work in any gallery, I feel that I have not been in this for a long time and I have never thought about it. I have appeared in an article in magazines such as Expert Photography, in the article “30 Most Influential Photoshop Artists to Follow in 2021”, and I have also been featured by Photoshop several times on Instagram, which makes me feel very proud of my work.
I keep working on my edits day by day, trying to improve, and as soon as I have time I get on my computer, my Wacom tablet and Photoshop and try to create something new every week.
Yes, I sell Photoshop courses on my website www.gervisuals.com/tutoriales where I explain my way of editing and people can see how I edit my photos from start to finish. There is a 30% discount if people buy 2 courses and a 40% discount if they buy all 3.
Instagram Feed link https://www.instagram.com/gervisuals/
Jillian Lee has a knack for creating a slightly surrealistic tone within her work, with rich tones and manipulations which capture your attention. I love the ease with which she asks the viewer to take her journey through the lens.
I love the ease with which she asks the viewer to take her journey through the lens. I did this and found myself wrapped up in the sumptuous colours and compositions evident in this selection we are showing this week. Her use of colours inspires and maybe this is helped by the elegant natural light available in Naples Florida but also within her slightly manipulated images colours, shape and form capture the eye. This is Jillian’s story.
Hi, I’m Jillian! I’m a wife, friend, dog mom, and photographer. I’m grounded by my faith and family and lifted by creativity. I was born and raised in Naples, FL, and am proud to call paradise my home! Growing up, we were always going to the beach and exploring our beautiful surroundings, which continues to inspire me to this day and plays a huge part in my photography style. After high school, I went to University where I earned my Bachelor’s Degree in Marketing, and I now have a full-time job in the field for a Construction company!
Rug Store – I had the idea to shoot in this incredible Persian Rug Store near the downtown Naples area, and contacting the owner and he agreed to let us use his place. I knew I wanted the styling to fit the patterns of the rugs, so this Theory floral suit was a perfect fit. The hair was something I had seen recently online and loved it, so I was so glad to be able to use it for this funky shoot. The model, Mandy Jiang, was flying to South Korea the next day so I was very grateful that we were able to fit in the shoot before she left! This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
I don’t have any fellow photographers in the family, but my mom and dad are both creative people in different ways;
I will always remember my dad doing amazing freehand drawings growing up, and my mom was a Kindergarten teacher for 30 years; if you ask me you have to be creative to do that job for so long! Bless her.
For me, it was the beautiful northern summer landscape and light that drew me to photography, which is funny since I hardly ever do landscape photography these days. I was 14 years old when my mom bought me my first point and shoot camera at the local store in Michigan during our family vacation. It was after that first snap of the shutter that I was hooked and I never looked back.
Fast forward 14 years and here I am still head over heels in love with the art. I don’t take photos to simply pay the bills, I do it to feed the soul, to fill the lungs and heart. I take photos of others in hopes of sharing that same magical feeling. I want everyone to have an easy, enjoyable experience, and photos to cherish and proudly share with the world. I also do it because I love creating and channelling my emotions and energy. I couldn’t imagine a world in which I wasn’t doing that.
That’s why I do this.
Piper Swamp – This shoot of model Piper Williams-Trejo was just outside of her house, where the ditch filled up with rainwater and grew lily pads! She had told me about the site and was comfortable with getting in the water since she was familiar with the local creatures. She is the bravest model I have ever worked with! This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
I started taking photos of nature, and then quickly moved on to taking photos of people such as my friends and family. I instantly got hooked on portraiture and was planning creative shoot after creative shoot to improve and hone my craft. It wasn’t until I had been doing it for years that I realized I could be doing paid photoshoots; that is when I started assisting, to learn as much as I possibly could from the professionals around me. I learned valuable lessons from each and every time I assisted and think it is a great way to improve your skills!
I am based in Naples, FL which is in SouthWest Florida and only a few miles from the beach which is amazing. It works for many reasons, one of them being the locations it provides for photo locations, as well as providing a large client base for work, which I am so thankful for. A move to a city could no doubt be beneficial to me and other types of photography work, such as fashion, but I will stick to travelling to cities for now and enjoying the slower-paced day-to-day life.
Nayla Studio with boyfriend – This photo was taken at the same photoshoot as the previous portrait of Nayla. Her boyfriend Jason jumped in a few shots with her and their chemistry made for some amazing photos. This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
The local landscapes and beautiful nature I grew up around completely shaped my photography style. If you look at my work it is almost all on location at the beach, the woods, or a random rock quarry when I need to get creative with my shoots. I follow all different types of photographers for inspiration because it can truly come from anything and anyone; concert photographers, wedding photographers, portrait photographers, they all have something different to offer, a different perspective to make you think!
So many different things inspire me; music, movies, books, words, sayings, people. It all comes at random times too. I might see that a new model moved to town and they instantly inspire me to come up with a concept, but a lot of the time it is working to think of something new and exciting, and it only gets harder the more you create, for me at least. I have learned that it is important to not be hard on yourself when the creativity doesn’t flow. It’s okay to take breaks and just work on client work for the moment and let your mind rest and be ready for the next project.
The model Laney Gould in this photo has the most incredible red hair and it always pops in our photos together. Pair that with the bright blue eyes of her cat and you can’t get a bad photo. The building in the back has castle vibes and is now a bank. You have to get creative in a town that chooses to tear down landmarks and rebuild instead of celebrating history! This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
I would say my style of photography is whimsical portraiture. That’s what I want it to be anyways. I love adding little touches of magic to photos because it’s fun and adds something more to the photo and makes the viewer think and hopefully become inspired as well.
My interest in photography started when I was 14, so fairly young. I was always a creator, whether it be arts and crafts, making my own clothes and jewellery. It wasn’t until photography that I truly found my favourite medium!
Eddy. Rock Quarry – This photo is from the same photoshoot as the previously featured photo, but with a warped plastic sheet that created a visually interesting look when holding it in front of eddy’s face. We couldn’t stop laughing at this, but I managed to get the shot while holding my breath! This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
During each photoshoot, I am already editing the photos in my head; the colours I want them to have, the contrast, and the light. I can already picture it as I’d like it to end up looking. Most of the time that involves making the colours pop and changing the tones to fit the mood. I try to steer away from making the colours look too unrealistic, as I used to play with them too much in my earlier days, but hey, we learn! Sometimes I even have to step away from the computer for a few minutes or so and come back to see if I still like the edit. That can really help, especially when you’ve been staring at a screen for countless hours!
The first step after a photoshoot for me is to cull through the photos on Adobe Bridge, and then edit the raw files in Adobe Photoshop Camera Raw. I then group shots that have the same colours, backgrounds, and moods into folders, edit the colours, curves, use any of my personally made presets, on one photo, and then batch edit those photos in that same folder so they all look exactly the same. If retouching is necessary, I will go back into the Final folder of images and select the ones that need a little frequency separation or simple retouching. Lastly, if there was a need for any black and white images, I would make those edits and save them as copies.
Nayla Studio – This shoot of model Nayla Latis was actually an in-home studio photoshoot at my friend and fellow photographer’s house, Sandy Windham. She invited me over to get some shots of Nayla and her boyfriend Jason who was starting to get into modeling as well. We wanted a very sultry vibe, so we made the styling very minimal and natural, and used a red backdrop. I ended up editing the background on this one to be blue, as I felt it matched her mood and pose better. This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
Yes! I love art. I especially love art that is magical and ethereal. I love doing photoshoots inspired by paintings because they weren’t limited to a camera and a model, the artist dreamt up whatever was in their head and put the paintbrush to the canvas and made it happen. It pushes me to be more creative with concepts and editing.
Tim Walker is my all-time favourite photographer. He is so imaginative and his sets are mind-blowing. His mermaid series with Kristen McMenamy is one of my favourites. I am still on the hunt for a giant tank to do my own version!
This shoot of model Nayla Latis was actually an in-home studio photoshoot at my friend and fellow photographer’s house, Sandy Windham. She invited me over to get some shots of Nayla and her boyfriend Jason who was starting to get into modeling as well. We wanted a very sultry vibe, so we made the styling very minimal and natural, and used a red backdrop. I ended up editing the background on this one to be blue, as I felt it matched her mood and pose better. This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
It looks like a decent amount of prep, making sure all my batteries are charged, physically and mentally, memory cards are set and IN the camera, and the gas tank is full! Nothing worse than heading to a shoot and forgetting you need to stop for gas. Once I am at the shoot I am usually playing music on my phone to get the vibes going, and the subject(s) and I are bouncing pose ideas off each other and making magic while having a blast. Once the shoot is done, I am normally super thirsty and starving so the next step is to fuel myself up! After that, I come home and try to relax for a bit and clear my mind before uploading the photos.
There is a really cool rock quarry in my town that allows me to use it for photos. It is my favourite because it doesn’t look like anything you’d find in Florida, and that is desirable to me because the location options become limited after a while!
This was my first photoshoot at the rock quarry and it did not disappoint. The barren-looking land was the perfect scene for our space-themed photos and Nayla fully embodied the character we wanted to portray and we were elated with the end result images. This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
I would like to own another light to supplement the one Prophoto light I won in a contest! It was a blessing because artificial lighting has always been intimidating to me, and I fear that if I hadn’t won it, I wouldn’t have ever bought it to try it out myself. It makes a huge difference and I am so glad I have been learning more about it!
My main camera body is the Nikon Z7ii, which I just recently purchased and love. I also have a Fujifilm x-t3 with a 56mm 1.2 lens that produces beautifully sharp yet dreamy portraits. My next buy is another mirrorless Nikon to be my second camera on hand at all shoots. The fuji I will keep since it was another part of the contest I won, and I’d like to keep it for the memories!
This photoshoot involved models Hannah Rodgers and Lena Romano and was inspired by a menswear look with oversized suit jackets. I had the idea to have Hannah walk in front of Lena using a slow shutter speed for that blurred effect, and then the wings came to me when I was editing in photoshop.This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
I mainly use 85mm and 35mm lenses. They are such a great pair to have at a shoot to get those different focal lengths and looks. My go-to for portraits is the 85mm, but for my creative work, I prefer the 35mm. I just love the focal length, not having to be too far away from my subject, and the way it pulls the environment into the shot.
I do not exhibit my work, mainly because I do not know where or how to. I would love to be a part of something like that so with a little research I’m sure I could find out how. Holding my own exhibition would be amazing, maybe down the road! I have been published in Vogue Italia’s online publication. I have 19 images on my Vogue Italia profile that have been accepted. It’s no print magazine, but I will take it!
Eddy Rock Quarry – This photo is from the same photoshoot as the previously featured photo, but with a warped plastic sheet that created a visually interesting look when holding it in front of eddy’s face. We couldn’t stop laughing at this, but I managed to get the shot while holding my breath! This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
I work for clients all of the time. They are mainly local families, high school seniors, and couples. I have the best clients because they trust me with an important job, capturing their memories to last a lifetime! While they may not be large, corporate brands, they are the best clients!
Piper Collaboration with Ger Visuals – This photo was taken of model Piper Williams-Trejo, and was shot in a local park. I ended up collaborating with a very talented editor named @gervisuals on instagram to get the final edited version and love how it came out. Piper is such a great model and always fits the magical mood of my photos. This was a personal project and the photo was taken with my Nikon D850 and 35mm 1.4 Sigma Art lens.
Instagram Feed link https://www.instagram.com/jillianleephoto/
I first met John some time ago in TBWA Manchester. At that time, I visited the area on pre-planned go-sees and showed my latest work portfolio. I was hopeful of being booked for a campaign or two. Still, the truth was at that time, the change in how Photography and content creation was already happening. Not many more major campaigns were available, but maybe it was my work I will never know.
Alas, I never did get to work with John on any campaigns or not yet anyway, which is a shame, but I have remained in touch over the years, checking in every six months to keep him updated on my work and look forward to the opportunity in the future. I wanted to get an insight into life at a top UK agency and therefore asked John if he wouldn’t mind and let me interview him for this blog or now magazine platform Silvergumtype. The interview will give a greater understanding of what being a top Creative Art Buyer means to a photographer looking for agency work and how photographers here on this platform can better understand the workflow and behind the scenes of agencies and agencies work.
John, please could you tell me a little more about you and who you are please.
Sure James, I’m an art buyer, creative producer and photographer working with direct clients, agencies and art directors creating content for websites, social media channels, advertising campaigns and brochures.
I have a background that spans both Photography and advertising. Having spent time as a Creative Services Director, Art Buyer and Stills Producer within a large agency, I’m well placed to understand and create imagery and content for brands that develop meaningful engagement against business and marketing objectives. This includes managing projects for direct clients and agencies from concept to completion.
I am interested in how you started and first joined agency life. I think it’s interesting to find out more about a persons career path, and maybe others would like to know also?
I started in advertising in 1979, working in small and large agencies with heavy involvement in Photography, including organising shoots and then post-production. This was, of course, in a world of celluloid film 35 mm, medium format, 5 x 4 inches and 10 x 8-inch formats. I was working with old school repro houses who drum scanned transparencies and prints.
Retouching was done in Quantel Paintbox, a precursor to Photoshop and then organising proofing – either wet proofing from printing plates or Cromalin proofs. It is a world away from the immediacy of the ‘I want it now’ culture we operate in today.
I did ten years with our design, Photography, repro and print operation before being asked by TBWA Manchester (BDH – Bowden Dyble Hayes as it was then) to come in to establish project management within the agency for 17 years. This developed into a vital role in setting up the photography studio to service clients like Morrisons, Wickes, Odeon, Jessops, BP, Nectar, Cussons, GHD. This was all tied in with growing a studio that included pre-press repro with retouching and Cromalin proofing for brand and fast-moving retail clients, all in-house In those days. I had an art buyer and three traffic managers reporting to me, plus a studio of 20, design, artwork and retouching staff.
Latterly, as Creative Services Director and part of the Senior Management Team, I oversaw creative workflow and outsourcing of services. I was taking onboard art buying and creative production myself.
About five years ago, I left this permanent role to become freelance but still consult TBWA \ MCR on art buying and creative and print production for other agencies and direct clients. I combine this creative producer role with shooting for clients myself, emphasising food, people, and general content creation for online and press campaigns.
I was once told that to work in London you have to be in London. So, as you know, location has been key to photographers and how they work over the years. Can you tell me a little about where you work?
I’m based in Manchester but work with photographers all over the country using London and international agents. As well as working directly with photographers. We’ve run shoots all over the UK, Europe, the USA and South Africa.
In a digital world, the Manchester base doesn’t prove to be a problem in management and delivery.
Agents and photographers often come to Manchester, but when necessary, I will have meetings in London.
We usually run PPM’s on Team or Zoom calls. These work well, saving time and money for clients, photographers and agents.
I believe that we all take inspiration from others. Art has influenced me in terms of lighting, such as Chiaroscuro from Rembrandt and Goya. Has art ever been an influence on you at all?
I like art, particularly contemporary landscape and portraits. My wife is an artist and so have a good knowledge of a range of the UK and international landscape artists through her. My passion is Photography; however – I wouldn’t say that art influences me in my art buyer capacity, but it is good to have a wide variety of creative influences.
In our conversations early on, I discovered that you not only liked Photography, but you are now an accomplished photographer. Has this interest in Photography helped you while working or engaging photographers as an Art Buyer
I’ve been lucky to work with many photographers at the top of the game in fashion, beauty, food, still life, jewellery and people Photography. When you work with the best creative talent, you not only know that you’re going to be producing great work, but projects are going to be a pleasure to work on; a slickly and professionally run experience is the key to running successful projects and a big black book of contacts.
I can be given a style board and creative brief and within an hour, able to pull together, alongside the creatives, a set of photographers that would be perfect for a project not just in terms of style but also personality and ability to deliver the project the client needs to feel confident and comfortable with a photographer and enjoy working with them. The Art Buyer Creative Producer role is all about experience and contacts built up over many years running shoots is rewarding work if you have the right team on the job.
Can you share with us some of the best or your favourite campaigns that you have worked on?
James, I would say that the below list would be some of the best our the ones which stood out for me are as follows,
ghd Dark or Pure – Rankin
ghd Pink – James Lightbown
Various Campaigns – Elisabeth Hoff
Morrisons Food – Jess Koppell
Cussons Imperial Leather – Matthew Shave
Cussons Imperial Leather – Guy Farrow
Batiste – Sven Jacobsen
Batiste – Ben Harries
Man United – David Boni
Pzza Express – David Stewart
MBNA – Gary Salter
JD Williams – Elizabeth Hoff
Co-op – Alex Telfer
Co-op – Martin Brent
These were all relatively large shoots with plenty of challenges. The finished images were stunning in their own right but formed the basis of powerful, effective campaigns that appeared in the press and as 6 sheet or 48 sheet outdoor posters. Tangible outlets for creativity are not lost in today’s crowded social media world.
Can you tell us about some of your favourite magazines, please?
GQ, Vogue, Vanity FairCampaign, Design Week
World of Interiors, Observer Magazine, Country Living, British Journal of Photography, Table Magazine
So here is the obligatory question most ask, and so shall I, do you have any hobbies?
Without being glib, I don’t have time for actual hobbies as I work 7 days a week. My hobbies are my work, so research and experimental projects are essential here instead of commercial jobs. Food photography portfolio building and keeping up with the latest trends in restaurant food from established and up and coming chefs.
When I have time, I would include walking the dogs on a beach in Cornwall or Yorkshire.
I’m just going back to shooting on film with medium format and a 5 x 4 camera, so that is an exciting area of personal work that I’m involved in. You’re working in a more considered timeframe on film compared to digital, so it makes for a calmer process.
So in your opinion, who would be the best creatives to follow and why?
I’m going to say, photographers. Number one has to be the genius that was Peter Lindbergh ( Also my Favourite), who sadly passed away two years ago. Then Henri Cartier-Bresson and Richard Avedon, and Mario Testino for his unconstrained, passion-fuelled imagery. In the genre of landscape photography, it has to be Ansel Adams and John Blakemore. I’d include Don McCullin ( I also think fantastic) – I believe war photography is one of the highest pinnacles of the art – tragic, poignant, but sadly essential.
In banal and street Photography, William Eggleston, Slim Aarons, Martin Parr and Dougie Wallace. Portraiture Julia Fullerton Batten, Animals Tim Flack and Food David Loftus and James Murphy
John, could I ask how you would keep your agency teams motivated?
It’s about starting with the best team possible for the job. Creatives, photographers, agents, producers, casting agents, model agencies, stylists.
You must have the best talent on board, mainly if you’re working to a tight deadline and constrained budgets.
I only work with people who have the same set of work ethics and values as meI need everyone to work at the highest level, and sometimes that breaks down into basic stuff such as answering emails immediately and picking up the phone when I call. Don’t hide behind your e-mail or voicemail.
So my exciting question, and I am sure many other photographers would like to know directly when you are looking to commission a photographer. What would your process be?
When a creative brief comes in, I like to assess it immediately, talk to the creatives and account team, get a feel for style, and suggest photographers and, where possible, a ballpark budget. I’ll make initial email contact with photographers or agents with a summary brief and style reference and follow up with a call 30 minutes later. It’s about assessing whether the photographer is interested in the project and checking availability for the proposed shoot right at the start.
I’ll pull together a list of 9 to 10 photographers, sometimes more and then, over a period of a few days, narrow the field down to 3 essential choices to put forward to clients with a ballpark cost, treatment and references of previous relevant work based on a range of factors including price, style, experience, personality and availability. I will refine the selection with the creative team down to the photographer that the creatives, account team and client are happy with. And this process should take about 1 or 2 weeks but can be done in less time if needed.
So when working with your chosen photographer, how would this evolve with the brand and project over time? Does the creative or narrative change? Or has it a consistency for the duration of the project or account?
Creatives and clients often want variety in terms of who they work with. A brand needs a consistent look, but that doesn’t necessarily have to be from the same photographer. So say a campaign has 3 bursts over 12 months; you would probably use the same photographer for this, but for the next year, the look and feel may have evolved, so the creatives and client would be looking to use new creative talent.
I think the days of sticking to a photographer year in year out is no longer applicable. Fresh talent is always coming along and needs to be factored into the mi, but having said that, the agency does have key photographers they worked with on various clients over a long period of time. These people need to be talented, reliable and prepared to work to client budgets and tight time frames; they also need enthusiasm and a great personality. Fortunately, we have built strong relationships with about 15 key photographers over various genres over the years.
We can then plug in new people when projects come along that require a different photographer style.
Agent relationships are key to this. Going through a good agent, you get access to usually between 8 and 10 fantastic photographers who you know will deliver to a high standard. A good agent will bring their ethos, passion and way of working to all the photographers in their stable.
It would be great to know, and so would other creative photographers hoping to work with agencies or agents. How is it possible for a photographer gain your attention without being a pest?
Instagram is superb, and many photographers, established, and new talent are outstanding on this platform. I know that many creatives go to Instagram first before photographer’s or agent’s websites. I’m not sure how this will work in future since Instagram has changed the algorithms to favour moving images over stills.
I am a fan of using high-end photographers’ agents, as you get professionalism, speed of response and production back up all from one source. The photographer can then concentrate on what they’re good at, which is shooting, and the agent producer sorts out the rest fromWe do also use photographers directly, of course. I prefer these photographers to have their producers.
So agents visiting with actual books is an excellent way to approach agency art buyers and creatives; you can’t beat face-to-face meetings for presenting portfolios of work.
I also prefer an e-mail approach from an agent or photographer. I subscribe to several agents mailing lists, and they are a great way of keeping up with the latest work from the talent that the agent represents. I’m happy to receive regular e-mails from high-quality agents or photographers, and I review all of them and click on the links to further portfolios.
In terms of e-mail design, it’s about getting the message over quickly, So 2 or 3 key images about, say, five new campaigns from that agent is excellent.
As we are getting close to the end of our interview John, it would be super if you could enlighten our readers, what has been or is the best part of doing your job?
I think for me, the variety, challenges, problem-solving and working with the best people in their specialist areas.
All this means that you can produce great work together but at the same time hopefully have a lot of fun. My experience is if people are at the top of their game, they usually have great personalities that generate enthusiasm and passion in everyone around them.
Are there times where you feel that there have been lows in what you do?
No real lows. It’s all about careful planning from the outset.
One example that wasn’t funny at the time was building the pyramid stack of shower products over several hours. So that a series of images could be captured over a short time frame as the foam cascaded down the bottles. Partway through this tricky shoot, the assistant tripped over the stack and brought it all down, which required an additional hour to rebuild since the camera had to be locked to capture the cascading foam for comping and retouching requirements.
I have seen such a change in the Creative Industries and especially Photography over time, especially over this last five years, and so John, Do you think the industry has changed at all?
So, everything is continuously evolving in our world, and there is a greater demand than ever for imagery, with billions being uploaded each week to social media platforms. This has the effect of devaluing the work in general, and you may often hear people say it’s only going to appear online. The image may only have 15 minutes or possibly 24 hours of fame before the next photo is posted by the client.
I’m talking about brands and retail clients here. The media is perceived by the client to be free or at least cheap compared to traditional outdoor and press campaigns, so the budgets for this kind of content creation are at rock bottom, often shot in a house or by a marketing assistant! Although this is a naive approach because the posted image still has to be a killer to sell the product. Bad imagery and social media content can damage sales and the brand. For example, you often see shocking Photography by chefs or restaurant managers, making the food look similar to roadkill. You won’t be booking a table based on the images that they have posted on Instagram.
How do we fight this, you say? This is a tough challenge because if you do, you are a Luddite holding back progress. I find that the more expensive the media – press or outdoor, as examples, the bigger the budgets! The campaigns are out there for longer, and the client doesn’t want an inferior image taken on someone’s iPhone being used when they are spending tens of thousands of pounds on media.
I have to ask this not just from my own desire to know but for the other creatives out there. Is there still room for new Art Buyers or Creative Directors within agency life?
It’s tough for people who want to be art buyers to get into the industry. I believe that many agencies have taken this role out of the mix and incorporated it into project management. Clearly, this is not a sensible move, particularly when the shoots are complex and/or involve detailed negotiation of usage. In terms of the creative producer role, this clearly does exist, but you do have to be in a world of being able to cover moving image production as well as stills.
Shoots now often incorporate both In fact, the moving image often leads the look and feel of the production in many cases behind the scenes or making-of footage is as essential to the promotion as the actual stills imagery that’s being created in terms of getting a response on social media. Now that Instagram algorithms favour moving images over stills, it makes the film clips even more critical to the campaign’s success.
What would you say are the positive changes to the industry right now?
Positives! It’s hard to say. As I previously mentioned before, there is a greater demand for imagery but with smaller budgets. These are sometimes unrealistic and unachievable.
Could I ask for the creatives out there wishing to get in touch with you? What would the best way be for you?
E-mail me.
Whether you’re a photographer or agent, always look at e-mails, as should any decent art buyer, to assess new campaigns and be aware of the latest trends and work. Keep me informed of what you’re producing monthly.
Finally, I would like to ask for your expert opinion on how a photographer can get noticed today?
Instagram is an easy answer, but with the algorithms changing, I’m not sure how this will affect things; creating slide shows of a set of images may be the way forward here, but I’m not keen. Indeed, regular e-mail contact is essential with details of new work keeping websites up to date.
I’m particularly keen on photographers or agents who produce actual printed material, whether small books or ‘newspapers’ sent out to key people in agencies – art buyers and creatives. In a world of social media and e-mails, a hard copy physical book or brochure landing on your desk creates stand out from the noise and gives you and your work gravitas.
Not cheap, but worth it.
John, This interview has been enlightening for me, and I would hope for others. I feel I have a better understanding of how it works, especially for you, and I would like to thank you so much for your time in completing your interview. I must admit there is some great content within your interview, which I am sure will help many photographers looking to get out there and get seen—more importantly, how to get seen potentially. Your experience within the creative process of Photography and its production will surely enlighten many and inspire them to be the next generation. You have given me helpful insight into my process and contacts with agencies.
John Allen
Art buyer, Creative Producer and Photographer
Photo website. https://www.johnallenphotography.org
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